Under-cabinet kitchen lighting: pick LEDs with 2700–4000K color, 90+ CRI, a dimmer, and focused 250–450 lumens per foot for clean, shadow-free prep.
Picking lights under wall cabinets shapes how you prep food, read recipes, and keep counters neat. This guide shows what to buy, how bright to go, and where to place each run for even, glare-free counters.
What Matters Most For Task Light Under Cabinets
Three things decide success: color quality, brightness, and control. Nail those and you’ll see knife edges clearly while the backsplash stays calm.
Color That Makes Food Look Right
Pick LED kits with a color rendering index at or above 90. High CRI keeps herbs green, steak red, and pastry golden.
Choose a color temperature that matches your kitchen’s vibe: warmer tones (around 2700–3000K) give cozy evening light;
neutral white (around 3500–4000K) is crisp for daytime prep. If you’d like a refresher on kelvin and bulb labeling,
see the ENERGY STAR LED bulb guide.
How Bright Should It Be?
Under-cabinet task light isn’t about floodlight levels. Aim for roughly 250–450 lumens per linear foot of counter. Pale countertops can sit at the low end; dark stone may need the upper range. Spread the light, don’t spike it—more coverage beats a single intense hotspot.
Why Dimming Changes Everything
Cooking at 6 p.m. is different from midnight tea. A dimmer lets the same lights work for both. Many modern kits ship with inline dimmers or low-voltage wall controls; some are smart-home ready. Just confirm that the driver and the dimmer type match, so you get smooth, flicker-free fades.
Form Factor: Bars, Pucks, Or Strips
Light shape drives beam shape. Pick hardware that suits your cabinet layout, backsplash texture, and how much wiring you can hide. Here’s a quick scan of common styles and where they shine.
| Type | Best For | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| LED Bars | Flat, even washes on long runs | Clean look, integrated lens; great for uniform counters |
| LED Strips (Tape) | Custom lengths, tight spaces, toe-kicks | Flexible, hides easily; pair with channel + diffuser |
| Puck Lights | Accent pools, small sections, glass fronts | Round beams; can create spots if spaced too far apart |
Bars For Uniform, Glare-Free Tasking
Rigid bars carry a diffuser and often a swivel bracket. A slight tilt aims light toward the counter face. With straight runs, bars look tidy and need few parts.
Strips For Custom Cuts And Corners
Tape lighting bends around corners and trims to fit. Slide it into a channel with a frosted lens to soften dots and protect diodes. With tricky angles or open shelves, strips make layout easy.
Pucks For Highlighting
Pucks create small circles. They suit glass-door cabinets or a compact tea station, but can leave scallops on a long run. Reduce spacing or mix a short bar near the cooktop.
Choosing Under Cabinet Lighting For A Kitchen: A Simple Path
This step-by-step keeps the process neat and the results consistent. Measure once, plan wiring, test a sample, then commit. You’ll avoid returns and fiddly fixes.
Step 1: Map The Runs
Measure each cabinet section in inches and mark obstructions: a range hood, a tall mixer that lives on the counter, or a deep window trim. Sketch where power can enter. If you’ll link multiple bars, note jumper lengths so connectors don’t tug.
Step 2: Pick The Look
Pick sleek bars or strips in channels. Match finish to the cabinet underside—black vanishes under dark trim; white blends under painted boxes. With a glossy backsplash, aim light slightly forward to cut bounce.
Step 3: Nail The Specs
Lock in three numbers: lumens per foot, color temperature, and CRI. As a baseline, 300–400 lumens/ft at 3000–3500K and 90+ CRI fits most kitchens.
If you need a sanity check on LED basics, the
U.S. DOE LED lighting guide
is a clear primer for home use.
Step 4: Choose The Control
Pick a wall switch, a remote puck, or app control. Tie the lights to one dimmer near other switches. Low-voltage kits may use a plug-in or hardwired driver; match the dimmer to the driver type.
Step 5: Plan The Wiring Path
Most installs hide cords at the back rail under the cabinet. Use adhesive clips or slim raceway to keep runs tidy. If you’re drilling between boxes, angle holes toward the back so they don’t peek out near the front rail.
Step 6: Test Before You Commit
Lay a short sample under one cabinet and power it. Check for dots on glossy tile, lens glare at eye level, and shadow streaks behind utensil crocks. A 10-minute mockup saves hours later.
Placement Tricks That Kill Shadows
Shadows come from lights too far back, too close to the wall, or too weak for a dark top. Small shifts fix that: mount near the front edge, aim toward the counter face, and keep runs continuous where you work.
Mount Near The Front
Install bars or channels within the front third of the cabinet depth. This pushes light forward so it clears the cabinet face frame and your hands don’t cast wide shadows on the cutting board.
Aim The Beam
Swiveling bars or angled channels steer light away from the backsplash and onto the work zone. Even a few degrees helps. If your backsplash is mirror-like, a forward tilt makes a big difference.
Keep Runs Continuous
Breaks create dark seams. Bridge gaps with low-profile jumpers or a short strip in a channel. Around a stove, leave the code-required clearance, then start the run again with a short bar so the cooktop counter still reads bright.
Power, Drivers, And Dimmers—Made Simple
Kits come in two flavors: plug-in and hardwired. Plug-in is fast and rental-friendly; hardwired hides cords and pairs with a wall dimmer. Low-voltage LEDs need a driver; size it above the total load by ~20%.
Low-Voltage Basics
Most bars and strips run on 12V or 24V DC. Keep wire runs short to reduce drop, and use the gauge the kit specifies. Where runs exceed ten feet, split the load from the driver into two feeds to keep brightness even.
Picking A Dimmer That Plays Nice
Magnetic drivers pair with MLV dimmers; electronic drivers with ELV models. For smart control, check the vendor’s chart so low-level scenes stay smooth.
Finish Choices That Blend In
Pick a fixture color that disappears: matte white, black, or brushed aluminum. If diode dots show, use a deeper diffuser or move the bar forward.
Common Mistakes And Easy Fixes
Most regrets trace back to three issues: light in the wrong spot, dimmer-driver mismatch, or not enough output for a dark top.
Light Mounted Too Far Back
Fix it by remounting near the front rail or tilting forward. If holes exist, use them for cable clips and drill fresh mounting points.
Glare On Glossy Tile
Add a slight tilt or shift the channel forward. A frosted lens softens reflections. If it’s still harsh, use a warmer kelvin.
Spots And Scallops
Pucks look patchy when spaced too far. Tighten spacing or swap the long run to a bar. Strips without a channel can show dots; a frosted diffuser smooths that.
Budget, Quality, And When To Spend
You don’t need boutique gear to get a polished result. Spend on three things: high CRI, a decent driver, and solid channels with diffusers. You can save on extras like motion sensors or phone apps unless you’ll use them daily.
| Setup | Suggested Lumens/Ft | Mount/Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Pale Quartz Or White Laminate | 250–300 | Front-third mount; warmer 2700–3000K |
| Mid-Tone Granite Or Wood | 300–400 | Front-third mount; 3000–3500K |
| Black Stone Or Deep Pattern | 400–450 | Front-third mount; 3500–4000K, add diffuser |
Care, Cleaning, And Small Upgrades
Dust and cooking film dim lenses. Wipe bars and diffusers with a soft cloth and mild soap monthly. Keep driver vents clear. If a run looks uneven, check connectors first.
Easy Add-Ons
Under-cabinet lights help with night paths. Add a small motion sensor near the sink. With open shelves, a short strip under the lowest shelf ties the wall together.
Safety Notes For A Clean Install
Cut power, test with a non-contact tester, and keep drivers and cords clear of heat from a range or toaster. Use listed parts from the same system so connectors mate and ratings match. Where a plug-in cord drops to an outlet, add clips under the cabinet so nothing dangles near a kettle or sink. Keep low-voltage splices inside the channels or the junction boxes supplied with the kit. When drilling between cabinets, smooth hole edges so cable jackets don’t chafe, and leave a drip loop on any run near a sink.
Quick Buying Checklist
Use this list in the aisle or online cart and you’ll bring home a kit that works the first time.
- Form: bars for even tasking; strips in channels for custom runs; pucks for accents.
- Output: 250–450 lumens per foot matched to counter color.
- Color: 2700–4000K to fit your vibe; CRI 90+.
- Control: dimmer compatible with the driver type.
- Hardware: channels, diffusers, jumpers, low-profile clips, and a clean power path.
A Simple Layout You Can Trust
Run bars or channels along the front rail, keep gaps minimal, and aim the beam toward the cutting zone. Tie everything to a dimmer near the main switches. With these moves, the room feels and the counters look crisp after dark.