Swapping cabinet shelves for drawers boosts access and storage when you plan sizing, slides, and install steps the right way.
Turning fixed-shelf bases into drawer stacks is one of the highest-impact kitchen upgrades you can DIY. You’ll gain full-extension access, better organization, and less back-bending. This guide walks you through planning, parts, and a clean, step-by-step install with pro tips for both face-frame and frameless boxes. It includes two handy tables you can print or save for your shop day.
Plan The Retrofit Like A Pro
Start with the cabinet style, opening size, and what you’ll store. Measure the clear opening (width and height) with the doors wide open, then confirm the box depth from the inside edge of the face frame or front panel to the back. Most base boxes land near 24 inches deep, which pairs well with full-extension slides, and finished counter height typically sits around 36 inches with countertops installed.
Note whether you have a face frame (a hardwood frame around the opening) or a frameless “Euro” box. Frameless units give a little more interior width because there’s no frame, while framed boxes add a front lip that changes how slides mount.
Quick Sizing Checks
- Opening width: measure to the nearest 1/32″. Subtract slide clearances per the slide type you choose.
- Opening height: plan stack heights plus gaps for slide hardware.
- Depth: confirm you’ve got the length your slides need (common: 21″, 22″, 24″).
Slide Types At A Glance
Metal slides come in three common styles for kitchens: side-mount, under-mount, and center-mount. Side-mount slides are visible when the drawer is open and often carry high load ratings; under-mount slides hide under the box and offer smooth, soft-close action with typical ratings in the 75–150 lb range; center-mount is used less in modern kitchens due to lower ratings and single-rail alignment.
Cabinet-To-Drawer Planning Matrix
This table helps you pick the best drawer plan for a common base cabinet. Match your opening and storage goal, then pick a slide path.
| Cabinet Opening & Goal | Best Retrofit | Why It Works |
|---|---|---|
| 30″ framed base, pots & pans | Two deep boxes on side-mount, 22″ full extension | High load rating and easy alignment in framed openings. |
| 24″ frameless base, mixed cookware | Three boxes on under-mount soft-close | Hidden hardware and smooth action in wider frameless interiors. |
| 36″ sink-base flanking space | Roll-outs (shallow) to clear plumbing | Slide-out trays avoid traps under sink bays. |
| Pantry base at 24″ depth | Four medium boxes on under-mount | Full access to pantry goods with soft-close action. |
| Narrow 15″ base, baking tools | Two medium boxes on side-mount | Side-mount fits tight widths with simple spacers in framed boxes. |
Convert Kitchen Cupboards To Drawer Stacks: Step-By-Step
This path assumes a standard base cabinet depth near 24″ and a typical face-frame kitchen, with notes for frameless setups along the way.
Tools And Materials
- Tape, square, and story stick
- Drill/driver, countersink bit
- Level and shims
- Slides (length to match depth), screws per the slide spec
- Drawer boxes (shop-built or ready-made), faces, pulls
- Spacer blocks or slide brackets for framed boxes
- Finish supplies for faces and edges
1) Empty, Remove Doors, And Map Your Stack
Clear the cabinet. Pop the doors and hinges. Sketch a stack based on what lives in that bay: deep box for pots, mid box for lids, shallow box for tools. A 30″ or 36″ base often fits two or three drawers well. If you’re working in a frameless system, you’ll have more opening width to play with because there’s no face frame eating space.
2) Choose Slide Type And Length
Pick slide type based on function and look. Side-mount slides are rugged and budget-friendly, while under-mount slides tuck out of sight and feel silky with soft-close action. Match length to usable cabinet depth and check the rated load for your heaviest kit.
3) Build Or Buy Drawer Boxes
You can build boxes from 1/2″ or 5/8″ plywood with a 1/4″ captured bottom, or buy ready-made boxes sized to your opening and slide clearances. Full-extension hardware gives reach to the back of the box, which is the main win over shelves. DIY and trade guides show box builds and rollout trays in detail if you’re making your own.
4) Add Mounting Strips Or Brackets (Framed Boxes)
For a face-frame cabinet, add hardwood strips or steel brackets inside the box so your slides sit flush with the face frame. Space the strips to the same offset on both sides. Frameless cabinets skip this step because slides mount directly to the cabinet walls.
5) Install Slides Dead Level
Mark a baseline 1–1/2″ above the cabinet floor for the lowest box and use a level to set the first pair of slides. Shim as needed so both rails are co-planar. Keep fasteners snug, not overtight, so you can tweak alignment before final drive-home. Rockler’s slide guide covers clearance rules for each style if you need a spec refresher. Link: drawer slide types guide.
6) Set The Box And Check Travel
Slide the box in and check travel to full extension. The box should glide without side rub. If you feel a bind, check for a twist in the slides or a proud screw head. Minor side-to-side tweaks usually fix it.
7) Stack The Next Levels
Mark the next slide set using a spacer board equal to the gap you want between boxes. Repeat the install and test routine. Work from the bottom up so you can kneel inside the lower opening while you set the upper pairs.
8) Align And Mount Drawer Faces
With boxes running true, clamp faces with a playing-card gap around edges. Drive two temporary screws from inside the box, center a handle template, then add pulls. Repeat for each level. Many IKEA-style systems publish exact height and depth figures for base frames, which is handy when dialing face reveals on a hybrid kitchen that mixes cabinet sources. Link: SEKTION base cabinet specs.
Smart Layout Choices That Pay Off
Use deep drawers near the range for pots and Dutch ovens. Keep a medium box for lids and baking tins. Shallow top boxes tame prep tools and wraps. A 24″-deep base gives room for full-extension hardware so you can reach the back corner with ease.
Face-Frame Vs. Frameless: Mounting Notes
- Face-frame: Add blocking or brackets so slide members land plane-with-frame. Watch door stop overlays when setting face reveals.
- Frameless: Direct side mounting. You’ll enjoy a hair more interior width, which helps when you’re squeezing a third box into a 24″ opening.
Picking Slide Ratings
Check the slide’s stated load rating. Under-mount soft-close sets commonly list 75–150 lb ratings, which covers cookware, small appliances, and pantry cans. Heavy side-mount pairs can list even higher numbers if you need a deep pot drawer.
Clearances That Keep Drawers Running
- Side-mount: Plan side gaps per the slide spec on both sides. Many sets want 1/2″ each side; check the brand sheet.
- Under-mount: Box width is closer to opening size; the slide lives under the box and needs a specific notch and hole pattern at the back.
Common Paths: Rollouts Or Full Drawer Boxes?
Rollout trays ride on slides but keep the door. They’re great for sink bases and tight spots. Full drawer stacks replace doors with faces for maximum access and clean lines. DIY guides from trade publishers show both paths in action, including jig tips and spacing tricks.
Cut List And Hardware Cheatsheet
Use this table to sketch your order or shop build list. Adjust widths per your slide’s clearance spec.
| Item | Rule Of Thumb | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Drawer box width | Opening width minus slide clearances | Side-mount often needs ~1″ total; under-mount varies by brand. |
| Drawer box depth | Slide length that fits cabinet depth | Match to inside depth (common base depth ~24″). |
| Drawer box height | Content height + slide clearance + face gap | Leave a small top gap for smooth travel. |
| Face size | Opening size plus desired overlay | Keep even reveals across the stack. |
| Slide type | Side-mount or under-mount, full extension | Pick soft-close if you like a gentle finish. |
| Slide rating | Match heaviest planned contents | Under-mount sets often list 75–150 lb; heavy side-mounts go higher. |
Cost, Time, And Skill
A two-drawer retrofit on a 30″ base with mid-range hardware often lands in a weekend. Ready-made boxes cost more but save build time. DIY box builds cut cost and let you dial exact sizes. Family Handyman’s kitchen projects show both approaches in action with clear photos and jigs for repeatable placement.
Troubleshooting: Smooth Slides, Square Faces
Drawer Rubs Or Sticks
Check for out-of-level slides. A small twist creates a bind at full extension. Loosen screws, shim, and re-square. Confirm box width matches the spec for your hardware.
Soft-Close Doesn’t Catch
On under-mount sets, re-seat the rear clips and confirm the required notch depth at the back of the box. Many brands need exact hole placement for the hook to engage.
Faces Don’t Line Up
Use card-stack shims around edges, snug two interior screws, step back to eyeball lines, then add the rest of the fasteners. If gaps drift after use, bump the screws behind the pulls and re-square.
Face-Frame And Frameless Tips You’ll Use
- Framed boxes: Pre-finish hardwood spacers before install so bare edges don’t show through gaps later.
- Frameless boxes: Use factory system holes when available; they speed placement and keep slide holes in a straight line. IKEA system docs list frame heights and depths that help when mixing aftermarket parts.
- Wide bases: Split heavy cookware across two mid-depth boxes instead of one tall bin. Your slides will run smoother at rated loads.
When A Rollout Tray Makes More Sense
Under-sink bays, trash pullouts, and odd interiors favor rollouts behind a door. You get the reach of a drawer without conflicts around plumbing or disposers. Step-by-step guides show spacer tricks and cleat layouts that fit almost any base.
Spec References Worth Bookmarking
If you need a quick dimension check, cabinet size guides and brand manuals help you set expectations before you buy slides or order boxes. Standard base boxes often measure about 34-1/2″ tall without the top and near 24″ deep; widths come in predictable increments, which makes ordering drawer faces easier.
Your Upgrade Game Plan
Pick the right slide style, measure cleanly, and work from the bottom up. Use spacers so each slide pair mirrors the other, then set faces with even reveals. Add dividers and organizers after a week of use once you’ve lived with the new layout. A steady, methodical approach delivers the neatest stack and the most useful storage.