Kitchen cabinets are hung by striking level lines, fastening through back rails into studs, then joining boxes and shimming flush.
Hanging kitchen cabinets comes down to measured lines, solid anchoring into studs, and tidy alignment from box to box. This guide shows the practical sequence that installers follow, the measurements that keep everything at the right height, and the fasteners that keep cabinets tight for the long haul.
How Kitchen Cabinets Are Hung Step By Step
Pros begin with layout and reference lines. Those lines guide every screw and shim that follows. Next, wall (upper) cabinets go up first so the base run doesn’t block access. Each cabinet is lifted to the line, held on a ledger, and fastened through its back rails into studs. Once the uppers are secure, bases are set, shimmed to level, and tied together. Doors and drawers get tweaked at the end.
Key Measurements You’ll Mark First
Base cabinets land at counter height, while uppers sit to leave a comfortable backsplash and work zone. The numbers below reflect common practice across major brands and project guides. Use them as a starting point, then adjust for ceiling height, appliance specs, or tall users.
| Item | Typical Value | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Countertop Height | 36 in from floor | Base boxes at ~34.5 in + 1.5 in top |
| Bottom Of Wall Cabinets | 54 in from floor | Leaves ~18 in above a 36 in counter (fits most backsplash plans). See the Lowe’s install lines guide. |
| Clearance Above Counter | ~18 in | Common minimum; can increase for tall users or big appliances |
| Stud Spacing | 16 in O.C. (often) or 24 in | Locate each stud and fasten to them, not drywall |
| Fastener Length | 2.5–3 in screws | #8 or #10 cabinet screws into wood studs through back rails |
| Reference Lines | 35 in & 54 in | Mark a level baseline; then mark base-top line and wall-cab bottom line |
For a step diagram with a ledger trick and layout lines, see the Home Depot wall-cabinet guide. Many manufacturer booklets echo the same heights, including the Lowe’s install sheet that shows 35 in and 54 in lines for quick setup (Lowe’s installation instructions).
Tools And Materials You’ll Use
- Tape, pencil, and a long level or laser
- Stud finder or magnet, plus painter’s tape to mark hits
- Ledger board (straight 1×3 or 1×4) and screws
- Cabinet screws (2.5–3 in), clamps, #2 square or Phillips bit
- Drill/driver, drill bits for pilot holes, countersink
- Shims, pry bar, and a block plane or flush-cut saw
Prep The Room And Strike Reference Lines
Find The High Spot And Set Your Baseline
Floors rarely sit dead level. Find the highest point in the floor where cabinets will stand, then project a perfectly level line across the wall. From that level, mark the top line for bases and the bottom line for uppers. Using these lines prevents a wave in the run and keeps door reveals even from cabinet to cabinet.
Map Studs And Obstacles
Use a stud finder and confirm with a pilot hole where needed. Mark each stud plumb with tape. Expect studs at 16 inches on center in many walls, with some at 24 inches. Openings, corners, and repairs can create odd spacing, so mark every one you’ll hit with screws.
Stage The Boxes
Unload doors and drawers to lighten each cabinet. Label the sequence on painter’s tape. Pre-drill connector holes through the face frames or side panels where boxes will join, so you’re not juggling a drill while you hold a cabinet on the ledger.
Hang The Wall Cabinets First
Set A Ledger To Hold The Weight
Fasten a straight ledger along the wall at your bottom line for uppers. The ledger carries the load while you position and screw cabinets. That simple board keeps the run level while you work solo or with a helper.
Start In A Corner Or With A Fixed Point
Install the corner or the cabinet that anchors a range hood or tall pantry alignment. Lift the first cabinet onto the ledger, check level and plumb, and drive two screws through the upper and lower back rails into studs. Leave the screws slightly loose so you can finesse the reveal to the next box.
Join Boxes, Then Tighten To Studs
Clamp face frames or case sides flush. Drive your connector screws through the pre-drilled holes to pull seams tight. With seams aligned, add more screws into studs through the back rails, then snug all hardware. Avoid drywall screws; cabinet and structural screws have the right shank and head for this task and resist snapping. Wellborn’s guide calls out #8 x 2.5 in screws through the hanger rails into studs, no drywall screws allowed.
Shim For Flat And Flush
If the wall bows, slip shims between the back rail and framing at screw points. The goal is a flat plane across doors and a straight shadow line under the run. Trim shim tails with a flush-cut saw once the box is tight.
Set Base Cabinets After The Uppers
Level Across The Run
Set the first base at the high spot on your baseline. Shim under the floor edges until the box reads level front-to-back and side-to-side. Screw the box to studs through the back rail. Work left or right from there, joining neighboring boxes at their frames or case sides before fixing to studs.
Align Fronts And Gaps
Use clamps to keep face frames flush. Check that door gaps line up from one box to the next. Adjust shims under or behind boxes as needed. A long level or straightedge across the fronts helps catch a proud corner early.
Recheck Appliances And Fillers
Dry-fit the range, dishwasher opening, and end panels. Leave manufacturer clearances for heat and vents. Rip fillers to maintain a true line where a wall is out of square.
Fasteners, Pilot Holes, And Rails
Where Screws Go
Drive screws through the cabinet’s back rails (the thicker strips along the top and bottom of the back) directly into studs. Use two screws per stud line on small boxes and more on wide cabinets. Predrill through the rail and any shim for a clean bite. Many brands call for #8 or #10 screws in the 2.5–3 in range into wood studs, which gives strong embedment without punching through exterior sheathing.
What Not To Use
Skip drywall screws. They can snap under shear and their bugle heads chew through thin cabinet backs. Use cabinet-rated or structural screws with washer heads or pan heads that spread load on the rail.
Hanging Rail Systems
Some cabinet lines arrive with a metal or wooden cleat system. The wall cleat mounts first to studs, then the cabinet hooks on and locks with set screws. The method speeds layout across uneven walls and makes solo lifts easier on tall runs.
Hardware And Fastener Cheat Sheet
| Use | Recommended Fastener | Why It Works |
|---|---|---|
| Into Wood Studs | #8 or #10 cabinet screws, 2.5–3 in | Strong embedment; large head bears on rails |
| Box-To-Box | #8 x 2.5 in truss or washer head | Wide head keeps faces flush without crushing |
| Ledger To Studs | 2.5–3 in wood screws | Holds weight while you set cabinets to line |
| Shimming | Composite or cedar shims | Fine adjustment without bounce |
| Pilot Holes | 1/8 in through rail; enlarge as spec’d | Prevents splitting and keeps screws tracking |
Common Mistakes And Easy Fixes
Skipping The Ledger
Without a ledger, each lift turns into a wrestling match. A simple straight board saves time and keeps the run straight from the start.
Chasing The Floor Instead Of The Level Line
Floors have dips. If you chase the floor, doors will stair-step. Always work to the level lines and fill gaps at the toe with scribe or shoe moulding.
Missing Studs
Mark every stud before you start. If a stud lands at a cabinet seam, share screws between both boxes at that stud line.
Over-Tightening Before Boxes Are Joined
Leave screws a touch loose until seams are clamped and faces are flush. Then tighten to lock the run.
Using Drywall Screws
Drywall fasteners can snap and their heads can tear thin backs. Use cabinet screws or structural screws designed for wood framing. Wellborn’s instructions call this out plainly.
Height Choices And When To Adjust
Taller Ceilings
With nine-foot ceilings or stacked crown, many installers keep the 54 in bottom line for uppers, then size the cabinet height and moulding to reach near the lid. That keeps the counter zone feeling open while filling the top for a built-in look.
Short Users Or Big Appliances
Dropping uppers an inch or two increases reach. Allow enough room above countertop appliances like coffee makers and mixers. If you add under-cabinet lighting, hold clearance for the fixture body.
Range Hoods And Microwaves
Follow the hood or microwave spec for mounting height and clearances. Adjust the cabinet above a range to match the hood body and duct path. Keep combustible clearances for gas ranges.
Finishing Steps: Doors, Drawers, And Trim
Adjust Hinges And Glides
Most Euro hinges offer three-way tweak to perfect gaps. Nudge doors until vertical and horizontal lines read even across the run. Slide drawers until fronts sit flush and glide smoothly.
Install Crown, Light Rail, And Filler
Fit trim after all boxes are locked and appliances test-fit. Scribe end panels to walls that wander. A tight scribe and clean crown line hide small wall waves.
Add Protection And Hardware
Stick bumpers to doors, mount pulls, and clean dust from tracks. Check that every screw is snug and that nothing binds. Wipe down surfaces and remove the protective films last.
Quick Reference: The Full Hanging Sequence
- Empty boxes; label sequence; pre-drill connector holes.
- Find floor high point; strike level reference lines.
- Mark every stud; plan around plumbing and wiring.
- Screw a straight ledger at the wall-cab bottom line.
- Lift first wall cabinet; level, plumb, and tack to studs.
- Clamp and join neighboring wall boxes; add stud screws.
- Remove the ledger; patch holes under the run.
- Set first base at the high spot; shim to level and anchor.
- Join bases across the run; check appliance openings.
- Fine-tune doors and drawers; add trim and hardware.
Source-Backed Notes You Can Trust
The line work and ledger method align with the Home Depot full install guide. The 35 in and 54 in reference lines appear in the Lowe’s installation sheet. Manufacturer literature such as Wellborn’s booklet confirms using #8 x 2.5 in cabinet screws through the hanger rails and avoiding drywall screws. If your brand ships a hanging-rail system or special hardware, follow that packet for any model-specific steps.