How To Change A Kitchen Sink Cartridge | Step-By-Step

Kitchen Faucet Cartridge Replacement — Quick Overview

A dripping spout or stiff handle often points to a worn cartridge. Swapping it out is a fix that most people can handle with basic tools. This guide walks you from prep to cleanup, with clear steps that match how major brands build their valves.

Every faucet family varies a bit, yet the flow is the same: ID the model, gather a new cartridge, shut off the stops, open the trim, lift the old unit, seat the new one, and reassemble.

Item	Purpose	Notes
Adjustable wrench	Loosen bonnet nuts and supply fittings	Jaw padding helps avoid scratches
Allen key set	Remove set screws in handles	Most single-handle levers use 1/8-inch
Phillips/flat screwdrivers	Trim screws and cap buttons	Small flat blade helps lift caps
Groove-joint pliers	Grip stuck parts	Wrap with tape for finish protection
Needle-nose pliers	Pull retaining clips	Keep a tray for small parts
Cartridge puller (brand-matched)	Extract seized cartridges	Some Moen/Delta styles need it
Plumber’s silicone grease	Lube O-rings and seats	Food-grade, safe for potable water
Replacement cartridge	Restores control of flow and temp	Match model; bring old part if unsure
Shop towels	Catch drips and clean threads	Microfiber avoids lint in the body
Vinegar or scale remover	Dissolve mineral crust	Soak parts a few minutes if needed
Bucket and cup	Drain lines neatly	Place under cabinet near stops
Flashlight or headlamp	See set screws and clips	Hands-free helps under-sink work

Spot The Cartridge Type

Many single-handle kitchen valves use a ceramic disc cartridge. The stem is flat on two sides, and the body drops in as one piece. Two-handle sets use small hot and cold cartridges.

Ball-style mixers sit under a dome with springs and seats; you will see a round ball with a slot on top once the cap comes off. Compression stems have separate washers and need more turns to open. Your parts photo will make the choice clear at the store.

Identify The Right Cartridge

The fastest path is the brand’s part lookup by model number. If the box is long gone, check the underside of the spout, the escutcheon, or the valve body for a small tag. A quick photo helps when you search.

No tag? Pull the handle cap and lever to expose the stem. Stem shape, spline count, and clip style narrow the field. Many shops will match the old unit if you bring it in a bag. When buying online, compare length, diameter, and notch orientation to the original.

Prep The Work Area

Clear the cabinet, lay a towel, and set a tray for screws and clips. Place a bucket under the stops. Turn both stops clockwise to close. Open the handle to bleed pressure and confirm the water is off. If water still runs, use the main shutoff for the home.

Protect the finish with painter’s tape near the handle and base. This saves the trim from tool slips and gives you a clean re-seal later.

Step-By-Step Replacement Guide

1. Remove the handle. Pry the cap button with a small flat blade. Back out the set screw with the right Allen key. Lift the lever and any sleeve or dome.
2. Expose the retaining method. Many valves use a bonnet nut; some use a horseshoe clip. Photograph the order of pieces so reassembly is easy.
3. Loosen the bonnet. Use an adjustable wrench; hold the body to avoid twist. If the bonnet sticks, warm the area with a hair dryer and try again.
4. Pull the clip. With needle-nose pliers, grab the tab and store it in the tray. Do not bend it; you’ll need the same shape on re-use.
5. Extract the old cartridge. Grip the stem and rock it straight out. For stubborn units, thread on a brand-matched puller and draw it out evenly.
6. Clean the valve body. Wipe debris, then swab the bore with vinegar to break scale. Rinse and dry. Inspect the seats and O-ring lands.
7. Lubricate light points. A thin film of plumber’s silicone grease on O-rings and the outside of the new cartridge eases the install and protects seals.
8. Align and insert the new unit. Match flats, tabs, or alignment marks. Press straight down until fully seated. The stem should sit square.
9. Reinstall the clip or bonnet. The clip should snap into its groove. If a bonnet, thread it by hand, then snug with a wrench until firm—no over-tightening.
10. Rebuild the trim. Slide on sleeves, set the lever, and tighten the set screw. Refit the cap button.
11. Flush and test. Open the stops slowly. With the lever mid-open, let water run 30–60 seconds to clear air and debris. Check hot-cold mix, swing, and shut-off.
12. Check for leaks. Dry everything and run paper around joints. A damp line points to a loose bonnet, a missing clip, or a pinched O-ring.

Brand-Specific Pointers And Links

Designs vary, yet the broad steps stay the same. Two links below point to brand pages with diagrams and videos that map to common models. Use them to confirm clip style, bonnet shape, and part numbers before you order parts. Delta: the parts and video hub lists cartridges by series and shows teardown order. Kohler: the service page shows the bonnet, mounting nut, and valve layout for many single-handle bodies. Delta parts and how-to videos and Kohler replace-the-valve guide.

Common Snags And Fixes

• Handle won’t come off: Spray a bit of penetrating oil at the set screw, wait ten minutes, then try again with a snug Allen key. Tap the lever upward with a padded palm.
• Bonnet or mounting nut is stuck: Warm the trim with a hair dryer to loosen mineral crust. Use a wrench with jaw padding, steady the body, and back it off slowly.
• Cartridge won’t pull: Use a puller matched to the brand. A gentle rock while pulling keeps the bore round and avoids damage.
• Low flow after reassembly: Debris can lodge in the aerator. Unscrew the tip and rinse the screen. Also cycle the lever from full hot to full cold to purge air.
• Drip at the spout: Seat may have grit. Re-pull the unit, clean the bore, grease the O-rings lightly, and reseat. Confirm the clip is fully home.
• Handle won’t aim the right way: Most stems have a keyed position. Lift the lever, rotate the stem 180°, and re-set the handle.

When The Valve Body Should Be Replaced

If the bore is pitted or cracked, a new cartridge won’t seal for long. Deep scoring, green crust that returns fast, or wobble at the stem points to a tired body. In those cases, swap the faucet or rebuild with a full valve kit from the brand.

Also look at supply lines. If the braided hoses show bulges or fray, replace them while you’re under the sink. It adds minutes and can prevent a surprise leak later.

Care Tips To Extend Cartridge Life

• Keep the aerator clean. A clogged tip raises back-pressure, which strains seals.
• Set max hot with the limit stop so family members don’t force the lever trying to get hotter water than the heater can supply.
• After any work on the heater or main lines, run the faucet wide open for a minute to flush sand and solder bits before the next shower or dish run.
• Use a thin film of silicone grease on O-rings during service. Petroleum grease can swell some elastomers; stick with grease labeled for potable water.
• If water is hard in your area, soak the aerator and the spout tip in vinegar now and then to cut scale.

Reassembly And Alignment Notes

• If the lever parks too far left or right, pull it off, rotate the stem one spline, and set it again.
• If temperature swings feel abrupt, check the limit stop on the stem and set a mid-range, then fine-tune during a short test run.
• If a bonnet squeaks while turning, back it off and add a trace of silicone grease to the threads, then snug until firm.

Brand Reference Table

Brand	Common Cartridge ID	Notes
Delta	RP50587, RP73000 (by series)	See Delta parts and how-to videos
Kohler	GP1016515/GP800820 (model based)	See Kohler replace-the-valve guide
Moen	1225/1222/1255 families	Check model label or call the brand

Time, Cost, And When To Call A Pro

Most swaps land between thirty and ninety minutes, with cleanup. A brand puller can shave time on a stuck unit. If the shutoff valves behind the cabinet will not close, stop and bring in a plumber so you can avoid water damage.

• Cartridge: common models 15–70 USD; specialty units can run higher.
• Puller: 15–40 USD if needed; some shops rent or loan tools.
• Silicone grease: small tube 3–8 USD; one tube lasts many jobs.
• New supply lines: 10–25 USD each if you replace hoses during the visit.

Full Procedure Checklist

1. Lay towels, tray, flashlight, and bucket.
2. Shut both stops; open lever to bleed lines.
3. Remove cap, set screw, lever, and sleeve.
4. Note clip or bonnet style; take a photo.
5. Back off bonnet or pull clip; do not mar the finish.
6. Rock and pull the old unit; use a puller if stuck.
7. Clean bore; treat scale; wipe dry.
8. Grease O-rings lightly; align tabs; press to seat.
9. Insert clip or snug bonnet by hand, then wrench just firm.
10. Rebuild trim; set lever; tighten set screw; refit cap.
11. Open stops slowly; flush 30–60 seconds.
12. Check aim, mix, and shutoff; scan for leaks with a dry tissue.