How To Clean Exhaust Fan In Kitchen? | Grease Fix Plan

Sticky hood edges, a film on cupboards, and a fan that no longer pulls steam—these are classic signs your range hood needs attention. A quick wipe won’t budge polymerized grease. You’ll need a short, methodical clean that reaches the filter, the blades, and the housing. This guide lays out safe prep, step-by-step methods, and finish-friendly tricks so the fan runs smoothly and the kitchen smells fresh.

What You’ll Tackle And Why It Pays Off

Cooking splatter hardens on mesh or baffle filters and on the fan’s leading edges. That buildup chokes airflow, leaves odors hanging, and can drip back onto the cooktop. A clean assembly moves air faster at lower speed, which means less noise and better capture of smoke and steam. You’ll also cut the chance of greasy residue near heat. The payoff shows up in clear air, less film on cabinets, and fewer lingering smells after dinner.

Gear Checklist And Degreaser Picks

Have everything ready before you power down the hood. The right tools speed things up and protect the metal finish.

Item	Purpose	Notes
Dish Gloves & Eye Protection	Skin/eye safety while handling alkali degreasers	Nitrile gloves grip well; splash goggles help with overhead drips
Microfiber Cloths (4–6)	Lift grease without scratching	Reserve one dry cloth for final buffing
Non-Scratch Scrub Pad	Agitate stuck film on filters	Look for “non-scratch” for coated or stainless panels
Soft Brush / Old Toothbrush	Detail corners, seams, and screw heads	Keep a second brush for the fan hub
Alkaline Dish Soap	Primary degreaser for mesh filters	Use a strong, grease-cutting liquid
Baking Soda	Boosts degreasing power in hot soak	Raises pH to break fatty residue
White Vinegar (Optional)	Mineral film removal and final rinse aid	Use diluted; avoid long contact on bare aluminum
Spray Degreaser	Spot-treat heavy patches in housing	Choose kitchen-safe, ammonia-free on stainless
Torx/Phillips Screwdriver	Remove light lens or guard if needed	Match bit to avoid stripping soft screws
Painter’s Tape & Paper	Protect backsplash and burners	Simple shield while scrubbing overhead

Clean A Greasy Kitchen Exhaust Fan: Step-By-Step

Prep And Power

Switch the hood off and unplug it if you can reach the plug. If it’s hard-wired, flip the breaker. This avoids accidental starts while your hands are near the impeller. Lay paper over the cooktop. Pop the light lens only if grease hides behind it and the design allows easy removal.

Remove And Soak The Filter

Drop the mesh or baffle panel by sliding the tab or pressing the spring latch. Fill a sink or a deep tray with the hottest water you can draw. Add a generous squeeze of dish soap and two heaping tablespoons of baking soda. Submerge the panel. Let it sit 10–15 minutes. Lift and scrub both sides with a non-scratch pad, working with the grain on stainless to keep a uniform sheen.

Degrease The Housing And Blades

Mist a kitchen-safe spray degreaser onto a damp microfiber, not directly onto the motor cavity. Wipe the interior canopy, the baffle ledge, and the fan’s accessible edges. Hold the fan still with a wooden spoon while you clean the leading edge; never spin it by hand. Use a toothbrush around the hub and mounting screws. If the cleaner starts to dry, re-wet the cloth and keep moving.

Rinse, Dry, And Refit

Rinse the filter with hot water until suds stop. Shake off excess and set it upright to drip-dry. Wipe housing residue with a fresh damp cloth, then follow with a dry one. When the filter is dry to the touch, slide it back until the latch clicks. Reinstall any lens you removed.

Restart And Verify Pull

Restore power. Run the hood on medium. Hold a tissue near the center of the capture area. A steady pull shows you cleared the blockage. If the tissue barely moves, check for a hidden second filter, a stuck backdraft damper, or a duct that needs attention.

When Buildup Laughs At Soap

Some residue cures into a varnish from repeated heat. A stronger soak breaks it down without harsh fumes. Bring a large pot of water to a near-boil. Stir in a tablespoon of baking soda per liter, then slide the metal filter in with tongs. Let it simmer gently for 5–7 minutes, rotating halfway for full coverage. Rinse under hot water and brush again. This trick loosens the amber film that normal soaking leaves behind.

Filter Types And What Works Best

Choose a method that suits the panel material. Painted steel, stainless, and aluminum don’t love the same chemistry. Pick a lane and keep contact times short on reactive metals.

Filter Type	Best Method	Cautions
Aluminum Mesh	Hot dish soap soak + baking soda boost; gentle brush	Avoid long vinegar soaks; brief rinse only
Stainless Baffle	Hot alkali soak; non-scratch pad with the grain	Skip steel wool; it can seed rust specks
Charcoal Cartridge	Replace when airflow drops or odors linger	No washing; water ruins the media

Finish-Safe Cleaning For Each Surface

Stainless Surfaces

Use a damp microfiber with a tiny drop of dish soap for general wipe-downs. For fingerprints, a stainless cleaner helps, but go light and buff dry with a clean cloth. Always move with the grain. Rinse residues to avoid rainbow sheen after heat cycles.

Painted Or Powder-Coated Hoods

Stick to mild dish soap and warm water. Blot drips right away so cleaner doesn’t pool near seams. A non-scratch pad can haze soft coatings, so test a hidden spot first.

Plastic Light Lenses And Switch Panels

Wipe with a damp cloth only. Strong solvents cloud clear plastics. If grease hides at the lens edge, dismount gently, wash in soapy water, rinse, and dry before refitting.

Ducted Vs. Ductless Details That Change The Job

Ducted hoods send air outside through rigid or flex duct. Keep bends minimal, and check that the roof or wall cap opens freely. A stuck damper strangles flow and makes the fan seem weak. Ductless hoods recirculate through charcoal. The mesh panel still catches grease, but odor control depends on a fresh cartridge. If food smells linger even after a clean, it’s time for a new cartridge.

Safety Notes Backed By Trusted Sources

Cooking is the top source of home fire starts, and grease buildup adds to that risk. Regular degreasing pairs with smart habits at the stove. See the NFPA cooking safety tips for a clear overview. Venting helps remove smoke and fine particles as well; the EPA guidance on kitchen ventilation explains why capture matters and why a working hood makes a difference.

Odor, Noise, And Weak Pull: Quick Diagnostics

Lingering Odor After Fan Runs

Clean the mesh, then replace a spent charcoal insert on recirculating models. Wipe the canopy lip; hidden residue near the front edge often holds smells. Run the fan 5–10 minutes after cooking to purge steam and vapors.

Rattle Or Hum That Wasn’t There

A mis-seated filter vibrates. Reseat it until the latch clicks. If the fan still rattles, check for a loose light lens or a stray screw in the housing ledge. A balanced impeller should sound smooth on low and medium.

Poor Capture Even After Cleaning

Hold tissue at several points across the intake. Strong at one side and weak at the other hints at a partially blocked duct or a stuck backdraft damper. On recirculating setups, a clogged charcoal pad behaves like a cork; swap it out and retest.

Grease-Heavy Cooking? Add Small Habits

• Start the hood one to two minutes before heat so a capture plume forms.
• Use lids and rear burners for pan-searing; the hood catches more vapor near the wall.
• Wipe the canopy lip after each session with a damp cloth.
• Wash the mesh every four to six weeks, or sooner if you fry often.

Deep-Clean Walkthrough With Time Budget

Ten-Minute Refresh

Power off. Wipe the canopy and switches with a soapy cloth. Rinse cloth, wipe again, then dry. Quick win on light film.

Thirty-Minute Standard Clean

Soak the filter in hot soapy water with baking soda. While it sits, degrease the housing and blade edges. Scrub and rinse the panel, dry, and reinstall. Test pull with tissue.

Sixty-Minute Heavy Restore

Simmer the metal panel in a baking soda bath, rotate, then brush. Detail the hub and baffle ledge with a toothbrush. Rinse, dry thoroughly, and reassemble. Check the roof or wall cap if the fan still feels weak.

Care For Motors Without Overreach

The motor is sealed and doesn’t need oil from the user side. Avoid spraying liquid into the motor cavity. If you see a felt dust ring near the shaft, leave it alone; it’s part of the design. A persistent squeal points to wear; at that stage, order the exact replacement motor or call a service tech.

Stains, Film, And Water Spots

For rainbowy heat tint on stainless, wipe with a cloth lightly dampened with diluted vinegar, then rinse and dry. Cloudy mineral spots fade after a quick vinegar pass and a dry buff. Keep vinegar away from bare aluminum panels; use a soap-only rinse there.

Protect Surroundings While You Work

Grease splatter can travel. Tape paper over the backsplash and lay a towel over burners. Keep a small bowl under the filter edge as you lift it out to catch drips. Change out gray water halfway through long cleans so you’re not redepositing residue.

Routine That Keeps Air Moving

Make the fan part of your cooking rhythm. Turn it on early, keep it running during the cook, then let it run a few minutes after. Wipe the canopy lip each night if you sauté often. Slot a filter wash day on the same weekend you wash stove grates. Small cycles beat marathon scrubs.

Eco-Aware Degreasing Without Harsh Smell

Hot water, strong dish soap, and baking soda remove most buildup. Save spray degreaser for tiny patches. Rinse rags well, then run a final pass with plain water so nothing sticky remains. Vent the room by cracking a window while the fan dries.

When To Replace Parts

Mesh panels last years if you wash them on schedule, but dents or stretched screens reduce capture. Baffles warp if dropped; replace a bent panel so airflow stays even. Charcoal inserts are consumables—swap them at the first sign of stale odor or every few months on heavy cooking routines.

Simple Mistakes That Make Work Harder

• Soaking aluminum in straight vinegar for long stretches—gray dulling follows.
• Scrubbing stainless across the grain—fine scratches catch light.
• Spraying cleaner into the fan cavity—overspray reaches the motor.
• Reinstalling a damp filter—water flicks upward at startup and spots lenses.

Proof You’re Done

The tissue test sits steady at center and sides. The switch panel feels clean, not tacky. No drips form on the canopy lip after a few minutes on medium. The kitchen clears faster during your next boil or sear.

Fast Reference: Dirty In, Clean Out

Power down, shield the area, remove the panel, soak and scrub, wipe the housing, rinse and dry, refit, test with tissue. That’s the loop. Run it every month or sooner if you fry often. Your nose, your cabinets, and your fan will thank you.